coffee around the world-create your own custom coffee table
Unfortunately, this is not a guide on how to travel around the world in more than one place at a time.
However, with your own custom world map coffee table, you can use your imagination, which is almost the same!
In this Instructure, I will show how to use some basic wood processing skills and tools to create unlimited possibilities for coffee tables.
The original idea of this project was generated last year when I saw a photo of a risky coffee table on the Internet.
I love the risk of board games and decided to give it a try.
This table is fantastic and I am very grateful to the people who have this idea!
From there, I decided to beboard-game-
For me, the world map always brings the feeling of wandering, what better way to start a new day besides wandering and coffee.
This manual will focus on how I made the world map coffee table, but I put a few photos of the other tables I made at the end, if you have any questions about how to free them to ask questions! Hope you enjoy!
The first step on most successful projects is a good plan.
Luckily, a good plan doesn\'t always require good illustrations because I\'m not the best drawer as you can see.
The advantage of building your own coffee table is that you can build it according to your own needs.
A few of the factors you need to consider before starting are what size you want, what design you want, and what type of wood you will use.
Your average coffee table is 16-
Height 24 inch, 2-
3 feet wide, 3-
4 feet long, but if you build one yourself, you can take these guidelines, throw them in the trash and do whatever works best according to your special circumstances.
For this special coffee table, I decided to increase the top 24 inch by 42 inch.
I made this size so it can be placed in the house so my design can be placed on the table with a nice border around it.
It turns out that there are many different maps in the world, so you have to choose your design before you start building.
The map I used was bought from this link on Amazon.
If you have a design that doesn\'t want to be broken during the table making process, I would recommend using transfer paper, which is also available on Amazon.
You can use almost any type of wood you choose, but it may be harder to see the design if you use darker wood.
After you \'ve decided on all of these factors, it\'s time to collect the supplies and start building!
You need some basic woodworking tools for this project :-radial arm saw(Or saw)-table saw (
A saw can also)-jig saw-drill-belt sander (
Or some sandpaper and elbow grease.
Include the following necessary additional features :-
Dremel or other rotating tools with Engraving/engraving kit-
I also used a wood burning tool, but you can easily replace it with an electric drill and a wood pin.
Wood wise I used about 16 feet of 1x8 Wood on the table top, 10 feet of 1x6 Wood on the skirt and 13 feet of 2*4 Wood on the legs.
Since the point of this table is the design, I wanted to make it look a little rustic, so I just used the wood laid around us.
You should be able to find the wood you need at the nearest timber yard.
To build a table top, you need to cut the board into length first.
I cut 4 boards 38 for 1x8. 25 inches long.
I cut them for so long that after gluing them together, I can trim any edges that end up being uneven.
I tear the fourth board to 5 and 3/4 thick so that my desk can have the right thickness.
I cut another 26 inch long board and tore it in half.
Each half is used as the end plate on both sides of the table.
After you cut the boards, it\'s time to stick them together.
To do this, you need at least two bar clips or some other way to clamp the boards together.
A good practice is to glue the two boards, wait for them to dry, then glue the third board, and then glue the last fourth board.
When the plate is bonded together, the particles should be in the opposite direction to the adjacent plate.
Once the main part of the desktop is dry, at least 24 hours after bonding, it is time to connect the end plate.
To do this, I used the cookie joiner with five cookies on each side.
If you don\'t have cookies added, you can also use wooden pins easily.
To do this, you drill holes on each side and then insert a 3/8 or 5/16 pin before finally gluing the pieces together.
Once the edge plate is connected and the glue is dry, I scrape off the excess dry glue with the hand plane.
The glue is gone, then I flush the table top with a Sander.
This is a really interesting place for this project.
Once you have assembled the table top and polished it fairly smoothly (
I polish with 80 sand and then with 120 sand)
Now is the time to start carving.
To transfer my design to the table, I glued the map to the wood with a spray glue.
Sticking the map to the wood saves time, but it leaves sticky residue, which takes time to polish.
Another way is to use transfer paper.
To do this, you need to stick the transfer paper to the wood with adhesive tape and then to the map above with adhesive tape.
Once everything is recorded, you have to track it down on every line of the map you want to carve.
This method takes longer to get the design on the wood, but saves time in polishing.
Once the design is on the wood, you can start carving.
Before actually carving on wood, I would suggest trying Dremel and engraving bits on some scrap wood heads as they can be difficult to master.
When I started this project, I looked up some different engraving techniques on youtube, but as far as my experience with this tool is concerned, it shows that any beginner can complete this project.
The first time I carved, I used the smallest spherical engraving position.
Gently push down, just hard enough to go through the paper and leave a slight scar on the wood, you can control Dremel and stop it from jumping where you don\'t want it.
After the first pass, I tore off the paper so it wouldn\'t get in my way.
Then I made another pass with this little bit, then made a pass with a medium ball bit, and finally made a pass with a large ball bit.
Every time I pass, I deepen the engraving so that when I polish the top, there is no risk of erasing the design.
If you have a different set of engraving bits, you may have different sizes of engraving bits, but it doesn\'t matter in the long run.
After using each section, you should let your map sit in front of you gloriously to show the glory of the world.
If you stick the map to the wood, your map may be covered with black paste, but it doesn\'t matter, you just have to do some serious sanding.
The lower side of the table or skirt is not entirely necessary, but it adds strength and I think it greatly improves the look of the table.
To make the dress, I cut two 1x6 boards 36 inch long and 24 inch long.
I decided to make the dress look bent so I drew the curves on the paper and copied them so they were all the same and stuck to the wood.
Then I cut the curve with a clamp saw.
Once all the skirts have been cut, it\'s time to assemble.
I use the cookie joiner again because it works especially well for these T-joints.
Another way is to use the rabbit joint, or maybe use the pin again.
Once I cut the cookie seam, it\'s time to assemble the skirt.
Use glue and bar clips again and the skirt will dry within 24 hours.
When you wait for it to dry, you can start working on your legs.
For the legs of the table, I cut a 2*4 into 8 21 inch pieces.
I cut them again for a long time so I can trim them after bonding to make sure they are exactly the same length.
Now, I know May 4 is not the most beautiful piece of wood, but by sticking them together you get a table leg that looks cool with a nice groove in the middle!
Once you cut all the pieces and stick them together, you may find some glue missing from the groove in the middle.
To remove this glue, I fold a piece of sandpaper in half and run up and down the cracks in each groove on each leg.
It is also effective to scrape off the glue with a screwdriver.
It takes a bit of time, but it is worth it in the long run.
On this table, I made a mistake and assembled this table before turning the edge.
Although it works fine in this order, if you router before assembly, at least it\'s a lot easier for legs and skirts.
I pulled up every edge of the leg and the curve of the skirt, which you can see in the picture.
If the pictures don\'t give examples that are clear enough, just leave a comment and I\'ll be happy to try and clear any confusion.
Finally, the table gets together and it\'s time to put it together to see if you \'ve made any major mistakes!
I was lucky after assembly that my table looked like a table, not like a bowl or other unexpected shape.
To assemble the coffee table, I first pour the table top, draw the position of the skirt, and then stick the skirt to the table and clip it on the table.
The next step will either require a very careful plan or a person or two to help.
You can put your legs where they need them and turn over the table and skirt, or you can ask others to lift the table while you put your legs under.
To assemble the table, I took one leg at a time, covered it with glue, and put it back in place.
Using the counter hole drill, I drilled three holes on the top of each leg, two holes on the inside of the skirt behind each leg, and one hole on the outside of the skirt.
I use screws instead of clips to hold the legs in place when the legs are dry, and the screws hold each leg in place and pull the whole table together.
Once the glue dries up, your desk can finish the finishing touches!
Before doing anything else, I suggest taking a step back and appreciating your hard work.
It\'s so cool to make things.
Now, go back to work!
Some final touches need to be made before painting.
To fill all the holes left by the counter sink bit, I used wooden putty.
Another option that might be better would be to glue the wooden pins in the holes and rinse them.
If you haven\'t done so yet, it\'s time for the edge of the router too.
By awakening the edge of the desktop, you can also remove sharp corners that can hurt you if you stumble across them at night.
The final finishing work is to burn the carving and make it more prominent.
This is another additional step, but it will make the design easier to see once the wood is painted.
If you don\'t see it from the title, I\'m not a person who really likes to paint.
For this table, I used a three-layer semi-gloss varnish with wet sanding in the middle.
The last dress is dry, you are finished!
The table is finished!
Only one step left. . .
Hope you like my guide!
When you get drunk in a small piece of your own world, your next cup of coffee will taste better!
Here are a few pictures of the risk table I made.
I used a very similar technique to this, but with some extra stains and a nice drawer for all the pieces!
Please feel free to ask if you have any questions!
Finally, an open-ended coffee table design.
I was asked to make this table with this particular verse, but this design can easily accommodate the references to your favorite book!
In order to make letters, I used a letter attachment for burning wood tools, which can also be easily bought on Amazon!
For book design, I just Googled open book pictures, right there.
The Internet is amazing!