GSH

custom coffee table ottoman

by:GSH     2020-10-09
My parents have been avoiding buying any kind of coffee table for their living room for a long time, so I decided to build one for them.
I thought an Ottoman style coffee table was perfect so I designed and made this one.
This coffee table Ottoman is made of oak and the cushion on the top is beige suedelike material.
This Ottoman design is inspired by other Ottoman on the Internet.
I like the idea of putting a rectangle and a shelf on the base.
Once I had an idea, I designed this base with SketchUp.
The side of the assembly base is very direct.
The front 1x4 is seated flat on the top of the leg.
1x3 seat at the bottom 1.
Fall off the bottom of the leg.
Holes should be drilled according to the fixture instructions, and then the side tape should be screwed to the leg.
I found the assembly process easier by laying the parts on the floor (flat surface)
Before being together
The first step in installing the Batten is to place the pine strips on the side.
This is where the oak strips will rest and connect.
In order to install the pine strips, I put the base frame on two saws right away, the scrap board supports the bottom side plate of the frame, and then I put two slats on the scrap board.
Because I want the Batten to be at the top of the 1x3 side plate, I can use this device to easily place the pine strips in the desired position.
This is easy to see in the image.
Place the wood glue on one side of the pine strip and slide in place.
Then put a few brad nails on the pine, and fix the glue in the appropriate position when it dries.
Both sides do so.
Now place the base on the right side of the floor or working face.
The slats are made by 14 22-1/4 \"1x3 board.
They are 1/4 \"from each other and 1/8\" from the base on both sides \".
The gap needs to be cut into two slats on both sides so they can wrap around the legs (
See image for clarification).
I found some spare tile spacers lying around, just in the right size, and found that they are very effective in achieving the appropriate intervals, and I would recommend using them.
Glue the slats along the pine strips and place a Brad nail on both sides to hold them in place.
After the Batten is placed, the spacers can be removed.
Base is almost finished!
The last step is to polish it at the end.
There are a lot of options at this point, but I chose to dye.
I should mention that before the installation, I think it would be better to apply stains on the Batten because it is difficult to extend the satin into all the narrow area batten on both sides of the Batten.
It ended up getting good due to dark stains.
The first step is to prepare wood.
Fill all the holes on Brad\'s nails with wood filling.
After drying the filler, use 100-grit sandpaper.
Then wipe or vacuum the surface and 220-grit sandpaper.
Again, wipe the base with a sticky cloth to make sure all dust is cleared.
Now is the time to apply stains.
First apply a layer of pre-
Dyeing according to the manufacturer\'s instructions.
After drying, apply the stain again as indicated by the manufacturer *.
Then finally add polyurethane to the gloss of your choice.
* Notes on the color of the stain I used: I originally planned to dye the base very dark, almost black, so I chose the Mew ebony stain.
After putting on the first coat, I arrived at the color of the show and loved it so much that I left only one coat.
This is a chocolate brown that is further enhanced by polyurethane.
Now is the time to make the mat.
The first step is to cut and install the foam.
Measure the foam and mark it as 37-
3/4 \"length 2\" width (
My foam is already the right width).
Next, cut the foam along the mark with a large jagged carving knife (
If you have, or fancy foam cutter).
Now prepare the backing of the medium fiber board for tufting (optional)
Through drilling.
I made a tufted pattern of 2 × 3, so I marked the mid-fiber board with a chalk line, the pattern made a grid of 3 × 4 and at the intersection of the chalk line
Finally, glue the foam together with the Gorilla glue to make it dry.
Now is the time to decorate the mat.
I apologize in advance to those who know how to decorate;
It may scare you, but it turns out to be good.
Take the ball and cut it into a size that can be wound around the bottom of the mat.
I hit the ball with three low lofts.
Next, cut the fabric in the same way to make sure it wraps around the foam and backing.
Place the fabric face down and place the center of the ball on it.
Then place the foam on the batting and fabric with the back facing up.
Long side folder and put a few nails on it to support the fabric.
Select a short end to start.
Fold the fabric over the short end and stick the staple food in the center.
Select a corner, clip the fabric and batting from the long end behind the short end and the short end, then fold the short end.
Once it looks even, protect the corners with staples.
Repeat the remaining three corners.
Finally, fix any loose fabric with DingTalk.
Tufting is easy to add and can be done almost at any time.
Make the buttons first using the fabric button kit and any spare fabric.
Then, using tufted needles and burlap ropes, start from the back where the drill is located and pass the hemp rope through the mat.
Put the line through the eye of the button and then pass it through the mat.
Take a small tufted piece and place it between the two hemp ropes, tighten and tie the knot.
Repeat for all buttons.
Now that the base and the mat are finished, the rest is to combine the two.
Place the base and cushion on top of each other and secure them together with a right angle bracket.
This will make it easy to take apart in the future if necessary.
All you have to do now is enjoy your new tea table Ottoman.
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