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live edge river coffee table | how to build
by:GSH
2020-10-02
In this Instructure, I will show you how to build a live edge river coffee table inspired by Greg Klassen\'s amazing work.
This is a simple enough project with some tricky moments, however, you can build one for yourself with just a little work skill.
Let\'s start!
For more details, please don\'t miss the build video above!
This is a surprising tool. light build.
If you buy 1x3 s for your legs, you can easily flatten the top with a router and do all the cutting with a round saw.
Don\'t need anything fancy here!
Tools used on the Live Edge River coffee table: materials used on the Live Edge River coffee table: tablets I purchased at a low price of $55 were significantly distorted and cup-shaped, so I cut it in half before flattening.
If your tablet is already flat, you can flatten it with a router clamp before cutting it in half.
After leveling, square the end with a herringbone saw or a circular saw.
I was cut by a local glass company so I made a template for them with a piece of cardboard.
The glass I use is a blue flat glass, which costs about $100, including the cutting fee.
Glass alone is over $70 and I\'m afraid to break it if I want to cut it myself.
I \'ve seen other people succeed with glass cutting tools, but I don\'t want to take the risk.
This is the most critical part of this build.
To flush the glass with the top of the plate, you need to route an area of the top of the plate out to accept the glass.
I did this: I fixed the glass to the top of the plate with a clip and then cut the groove with the router and the \"x\" template drill bit.
The router is positioned against the glass and travels along the curve.
This is inherently dangerous, so put on the eye protection device and take the risk yourself!
After routing this groove, the rest of the waste needs to be cleared.
I did this with the same router bit and handed it free of charge to make sure to stay away from the first groove I cut.
Once all the waste has been removed, I cleaned up any router bit marks left behind with a scratch machine and a Sander.
Most live edge plates hang some loose bark and other things from the live edge.
It is best to remove anything loose and may fall off later.
I use a chisel and the speaker has to remove the bark, shape the edges, and then grind everything flat with a random track Sander.
After all the wiring was done, I used the drum sander and the random track Sander to polish my flat pieces to reach 220 sand.
This is the display surface, so please take a moment and make sure to remove any line or other tool marks.
Most live edge plates will have some kind of crack or hole, and mine is no exception.
I filled the carpenter ant hole on my plate with ArtResin epoxy.
I like to use ArtResin because it has no smoke and I can apply it inside.
The size of your legs will depend on the size of your slate and the height of the coffee table you want, but my legs end up being about 16 \"wide 14\" high.
I\'m using the thick walnut that I already have on hand, but if you don\'t have a machine to process the wood, you can use 1x3 s from the home center.
If you want to skip the build leg completely, you can use things like hairpin legs.
For the carpentry of my legs, I used my Festool Domino, but there are a lot of options for connecting the docking joints.
Pin, pocket hole, fit, finger joint, list constantly.
Use something you feel comfortable.
Before assembling the legs, now is a good time to drill and you can connect the legs to the top.
I am using drill holes and threaded holes with bolts to connect my legs.
I drilled a countersunk hole with a Forstner drill bit and then stretched the hole to the outside of the leg to allow the wood to move.
Assemble your legs no matter what kind of carpentry method you use.
Try to avoid squeezing as much glue as possible, because it will be cumbersome to clean up later.
A good design option for the legs is wiring along the top outside edge of the leg.
I cut my size about a \"deep\" width.
When assembled later, this cut will give the top a floating effect.
I just used the same router bit as before to do this.
As I mentioned earlier, I connect the leg to the top with a threaded hole.
I\'m using the new silk stick, which is a very nice gadget.
To tap the hole, you can pre-
Drill holes with the correct drill bit and then push the tap into the hole.
Super fast, very strong. I used ¼-
20 Long bolts for my desk.
I polished all the particles up to 220, cleared the dust, and then it was time to apply the finish.
This is the first time I try to wipe with cotton wax
In Poly, but this is a very easy application to complete.
I just wiped it on my coat and let it dry for a few hours, lightly polished with 320 sandpaper to remove any rough areas, remove the dust and repeat this step 3 to 4 times
The result was great.
The Assembly table is very simple, just screw the bolts into the holes we knocked on before and tighten them.
Hold the bolts slightly loose on the outside edge of the table to allow the wood to move. That\'s it!
Hope your river watch will be as good as mine and I am very happy with the end result.
This is a good building to take your carpentry to a new level and I think it will be a great introduction to some new woodworking methods.
If you like this project, please check out my website and YouTube channel to learn more about my work.
Hope you can share my things with your friends too!
Thank you. See you next week for another project.
This is a simple enough project with some tricky moments, however, you can build one for yourself with just a little work skill.
Let\'s start!
For more details, please don\'t miss the build video above!
This is a surprising tool. light build.
If you buy 1x3 s for your legs, you can easily flatten the top with a router and do all the cutting with a round saw.
Don\'t need anything fancy here!
Tools used on the Live Edge River coffee table: materials used on the Live Edge River coffee table: tablets I purchased at a low price of $55 were significantly distorted and cup-shaped, so I cut it in half before flattening.
If your tablet is already flat, you can flatten it with a router clamp before cutting it in half.
After leveling, square the end with a herringbone saw or a circular saw.
I was cut by a local glass company so I made a template for them with a piece of cardboard.
The glass I use is a blue flat glass, which costs about $100, including the cutting fee.
Glass alone is over $70 and I\'m afraid to break it if I want to cut it myself.
I \'ve seen other people succeed with glass cutting tools, but I don\'t want to take the risk.
This is the most critical part of this build.
To flush the glass with the top of the plate, you need to route an area of the top of the plate out to accept the glass.
I did this: I fixed the glass to the top of the plate with a clip and then cut the groove with the router and the \"x\" template drill bit.
The router is positioned against the glass and travels along the curve.
This is inherently dangerous, so put on the eye protection device and take the risk yourself!
After routing this groove, the rest of the waste needs to be cleared.
I did this with the same router bit and handed it free of charge to make sure to stay away from the first groove I cut.
Once all the waste has been removed, I cleaned up any router bit marks left behind with a scratch machine and a Sander.
Most live edge plates hang some loose bark and other things from the live edge.
It is best to remove anything loose and may fall off later.
I use a chisel and the speaker has to remove the bark, shape the edges, and then grind everything flat with a random track Sander.
After all the wiring was done, I used the drum sander and the random track Sander to polish my flat pieces to reach 220 sand.
This is the display surface, so please take a moment and make sure to remove any line or other tool marks.
Most live edge plates will have some kind of crack or hole, and mine is no exception.
I filled the carpenter ant hole on my plate with ArtResin epoxy.
I like to use ArtResin because it has no smoke and I can apply it inside.
The size of your legs will depend on the size of your slate and the height of the coffee table you want, but my legs end up being about 16 \"wide 14\" high.
I\'m using the thick walnut that I already have on hand, but if you don\'t have a machine to process the wood, you can use 1x3 s from the home center.
If you want to skip the build leg completely, you can use things like hairpin legs.
For the carpentry of my legs, I used my Festool Domino, but there are a lot of options for connecting the docking joints.
Pin, pocket hole, fit, finger joint, list constantly.
Use something you feel comfortable.
Before assembling the legs, now is a good time to drill and you can connect the legs to the top.
I am using drill holes and threaded holes with bolts to connect my legs.
I drilled a countersunk hole with a Forstner drill bit and then stretched the hole to the outside of the leg to allow the wood to move.
Assemble your legs no matter what kind of carpentry method you use.
Try to avoid squeezing as much glue as possible, because it will be cumbersome to clean up later.
A good design option for the legs is wiring along the top outside edge of the leg.
I cut my size about a \"deep\" width.
When assembled later, this cut will give the top a floating effect.
I just used the same router bit as before to do this.
As I mentioned earlier, I connect the leg to the top with a threaded hole.
I\'m using the new silk stick, which is a very nice gadget.
To tap the hole, you can pre-
Drill holes with the correct drill bit and then push the tap into the hole.
Super fast, very strong. I used ¼-
20 Long bolts for my desk.
I polished all the particles up to 220, cleared the dust, and then it was time to apply the finish.
This is the first time I try to wipe with cotton wax
In Poly, but this is a very easy application to complete.
I just wiped it on my coat and let it dry for a few hours, lightly polished with 320 sandpaper to remove any rough areas, remove the dust and repeat this step 3 to 4 times
The result was great.
The Assembly table is very simple, just screw the bolts into the holes we knocked on before and tighten them.
Hold the bolts slightly loose on the outside edge of the table to allow the wood to move. That\'s it!
Hope your river watch will be as good as mine and I am very happy with the end result.
This is a good building to take your carpentry to a new level and I think it will be a great introduction to some new woodworking methods.
If you like this project, please check out my website and YouTube channel to learn more about my work.
Hope you can share my things with your friends too!
Thank you. See you next week for another project.
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