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modern maple and steel coffee table | how to build
by：GSH
2020-10-02
In this Instructure I will show you how to build this modern maple and steel coffee table featuring solid maple top and welded steel base.
This is a fairly in-
Deep build, but the final work is gorgeous!
Don\'t miss the build video above for more details!
I will divide the building into two halves: top and bottom.
Here are the materials and tools for these two parts.
Materials required on modern maple and steel coffee tables are used on modern maple and steel coffee tables: materials used on modern maple and steel coffee tables: I used hard maple trees in this building, starting with rough wood.
The final thickness of the top is less than 4 \", so starting with at least 8\" wide boards helps reduce waste.
If you want to lower the wood budget for this project, you can use 2x10 from the home center and handle them the same way.
6 2x10x8s will give you enough wood to make these tops.
I cut the board into a rough length on the Mitter saw, about 30 \", then joined an edge on the joint, and then tore the board on the table saw in half.
As these parts are cut into a rough size, then I square each piece using connectors, planters, table saws, and mitchsaw.
If you use 2x10 s from the center of the home, you may be able to skip the planks on the planing bed.
After finishing everything, I sorted the pieces so that any imperfections would face the bottom of the top and draw a big triangle at the top to keep the pieces in order
One of the design elements on these tables is the nuts and washers embedded on both sides of the top.
In order to do this, I decided to go all out and go all out.
The thread runs all the time at the top. I used ¾\" all-
Thread so I drilled 1 hole on each plate.
I used a block on my drill to keep these holes lined up.
I also need to drill a 2 \"hole on the outer side plate to embed the washer and nut.
I used 2 \"Forstner bit for this.
Before gluing, I use the cookie joint to cut the slots to help keep all the plates aligned during the bonding process.
This is optional but very encouraging.
I put glue on each face, added cookies, and held everything tight.
This is a glue with a lot of pressure, but planning ahead does help to relieve stress.
I put all my clips in advance and made sure I had a lot of glue and cookies ready.
After the glue is glued, you will inevitably have some slippage, so the part on the top will not be perfectly aligned.
I level the bottom with a low angle jack plane and then flatten the top with a drum sander.
If you don\'t have a drum machine, you can flatten the top with a manual plane, but I\'m not very good at using a manual plane yet.
After leveling the table top, I aligned both ends with a track saw.
The Saw and straight sides can also work.
Due to the thick top, I had to go through, flip the top, and then go through again, all the way through.
The next step is quite a bit of polishing.
Considering that there is so much surface area on these countertops, there is a lot of sanding in front of me.
I started with 80 sand all the way up to 180.
Before polishing with my last sand, I rounded all edges on the router using the \"radius round bit.
This is a big part of the look of these tables, plus if you hit the table it will stop you from destroying your calves. I used a water-
Polyurethane of these tops as they will see quite a bit of wear and tear from coffee cups, plates, etc.
I rubbed sand between my coats and applied four coats in total.
The base is made of No. 16 No. 1 \"square steel pipe\" and \"flat steel bar.
Legs 12 \"high, stretcher 16\" wide between legs.
I cut the pieces thick and stick them together and cut them into the last length.
This approach, known as \"gang cutting\", helps to ensure that all pieces end at the same length.
I cut the steel with a metal knife saw, but the angle grinder or the steel saw is OK as well.
This is an important step I have skipped in the past.
Tilting the edges that will be welded helps to provide more flow into the weld, which is especially important if you are going to polish the weld flush.
I use my grinder, but the angle grinder is OK.
I used the MIG 2A MP welder set up by Lincoln power for solid-core MIG welding.
I first nailed the pieces in place and then ran a full bead on each side of the joint.
First I connected the leg to a cross stretcher and created a U-shaped section.
After this step, I smoothed the weld.
Next, I weld to two U-
Section formed together with the other two cross sections
Stretcher in the middle
The structure forms the bottom.
I created a frame using a flat bar that will connect to the top of the base and provide a position for the base to connect to the desktop.
I cut the end at a 45 degree angle, weld the pieces together, ground the weld to flush, and then drill the mounting bolts through.
The holes should be slightly too large to allow the wood to move.
I welded the two parts together, assembled the frame and the base, and drilled holes.
Make sure to clip these in the proper position so they don\'t twist because of the heat.
I used a metallic gloss on my finish, so I had to remove all the grinding faces from my base so that the gloss would work.
I used a flap disc on the angle grinder and then a random track Sander.
The metal patina I use is called black magic and is made by a company called Sculpt Nouveau.
First of all, I need to remove any oil and dirt from the steel and for this I use a metal skim.
Next, I painted the metal patina very heavy and sat it for about 5 minutes.
I then rinse it clean with a hose and let the base dry.
When the base was dry, I sprayed several layers of paint to seal the base.
Since the bottom of the leg is still the open steel pipe, I need to add something to protect the floor under the table.
These plastic feet are just pressure fit and are perfect for this situation.
I center the base to the bottom of the table top, mark the position of the hole and drill and dig the hole.
I use the wood whis tap to knock the hole in the wood and I really like this method of connecting the table base to the table top.
Simple, fast, very powerful. The all-
The thread I use at the top is only 36 \"length and the desktop ends with a 29\" width.
I use my metal cutting band saw to cut the rod into length and then grind a cone at the end with my belt conveyor so that the nut can screw the thread easily.
Hacksaw and files will be a good alternative if you don\'t have these tools.
To attach all-
Thread, I ran it over and added a \"flat washer and nut\" at each end \".
I gently tighten the rod snu with a pair of wrenches, but this is just for the show, so there is no need to really tighten.
Using the threaded holes I drilled earlier, I connected the base to the table top with 1 \"long\"
Bolts, lock washers and washers are 20 each.
The holes at the bottom are slightly too large to explain the movement of the wood.
As you can see, I built a pair of coffee tables as they were designed to work together or to be used separately.
I am very happy with the results and they should last for many years.
If you like this project, subscribe to my YouTube channel, look at my website and learn about my future construction. Thanks!
This is a fairly in-
Deep build, but the final work is gorgeous!
Don\'t miss the build video above for more details!
I will divide the building into two halves: top and bottom.
Here are the materials and tools for these two parts.
Materials required on modern maple and steel coffee tables are used on modern maple and steel coffee tables: materials used on modern maple and steel coffee tables: I used hard maple trees in this building, starting with rough wood.
The final thickness of the top is less than 4 \", so starting with at least 8\" wide boards helps reduce waste.
If you want to lower the wood budget for this project, you can use 2x10 from the home center and handle them the same way.
6 2x10x8s will give you enough wood to make these tops.
I cut the board into a rough length on the Mitter saw, about 30 \", then joined an edge on the joint, and then tore the board on the table saw in half.
As these parts are cut into a rough size, then I square each piece using connectors, planters, table saws, and mitchsaw.
If you use 2x10 s from the center of the home, you may be able to skip the planks on the planing bed.
After finishing everything, I sorted the pieces so that any imperfections would face the bottom of the top and draw a big triangle at the top to keep the pieces in order
One of the design elements on these tables is the nuts and washers embedded on both sides of the top.
In order to do this, I decided to go all out and go all out.
The thread runs all the time at the top. I used ¾\" all-
Thread so I drilled 1 hole on each plate.
I used a block on my drill to keep these holes lined up.
I also need to drill a 2 \"hole on the outer side plate to embed the washer and nut.
I used 2 \"Forstner bit for this.
Before gluing, I use the cookie joint to cut the slots to help keep all the plates aligned during the bonding process.
This is optional but very encouraging.
I put glue on each face, added cookies, and held everything tight.
This is a glue with a lot of pressure, but planning ahead does help to relieve stress.
I put all my clips in advance and made sure I had a lot of glue and cookies ready.
After the glue is glued, you will inevitably have some slippage, so the part on the top will not be perfectly aligned.
I level the bottom with a low angle jack plane and then flatten the top with a drum sander.
If you don\'t have a drum machine, you can flatten the top with a manual plane, but I\'m not very good at using a manual plane yet.
After leveling the table top, I aligned both ends with a track saw.
The Saw and straight sides can also work.
Due to the thick top, I had to go through, flip the top, and then go through again, all the way through.
The next step is quite a bit of polishing.
Considering that there is so much surface area on these countertops, there is a lot of sanding in front of me.
I started with 80 sand all the way up to 180.
Before polishing with my last sand, I rounded all edges on the router using the \"radius round bit.
This is a big part of the look of these tables, plus if you hit the table it will stop you from destroying your calves. I used a water-
Polyurethane of these tops as they will see quite a bit of wear and tear from coffee cups, plates, etc.
I rubbed sand between my coats and applied four coats in total.
The base is made of No. 16 No. 1 \"square steel pipe\" and \"flat steel bar.
Legs 12 \"high, stretcher 16\" wide between legs.
I cut the pieces thick and stick them together and cut them into the last length.
This approach, known as \"gang cutting\", helps to ensure that all pieces end at the same length.
I cut the steel with a metal knife saw, but the angle grinder or the steel saw is OK as well.
This is an important step I have skipped in the past.
Tilting the edges that will be welded helps to provide more flow into the weld, which is especially important if you are going to polish the weld flush.
I use my grinder, but the angle grinder is OK.
I used the MIG 2A MP welder set up by Lincoln power for solid-core MIG welding.
I first nailed the pieces in place and then ran a full bead on each side of the joint.
First I connected the leg to a cross stretcher and created a U-shaped section.
After this step, I smoothed the weld.
Next, I weld to two U-
Section formed together with the other two cross sections
Stretcher in the middle
The structure forms the bottom.
I created a frame using a flat bar that will connect to the top of the base and provide a position for the base to connect to the desktop.
I cut the end at a 45 degree angle, weld the pieces together, ground the weld to flush, and then drill the mounting bolts through.
The holes should be slightly too large to allow the wood to move.
I welded the two parts together, assembled the frame and the base, and drilled holes.
Make sure to clip these in the proper position so they don\'t twist because of the heat.
I used a metallic gloss on my finish, so I had to remove all the grinding faces from my base so that the gloss would work.
I used a flap disc on the angle grinder and then a random track Sander.
The metal patina I use is called black magic and is made by a company called Sculpt Nouveau.
First of all, I need to remove any oil and dirt from the steel and for this I use a metal skim.
Next, I painted the metal patina very heavy and sat it for about 5 minutes.
I then rinse it clean with a hose and let the base dry.
When the base was dry, I sprayed several layers of paint to seal the base.
Since the bottom of the leg is still the open steel pipe, I need to add something to protect the floor under the table.
These plastic feet are just pressure fit and are perfect for this situation.
I center the base to the bottom of the table top, mark the position of the hole and drill and dig the hole.
I use the wood whis tap to knock the hole in the wood and I really like this method of connecting the table base to the table top.
Simple, fast, very powerful. The all-
The thread I use at the top is only 36 \"length and the desktop ends with a 29\" width.
I use my metal cutting band saw to cut the rod into length and then grind a cone at the end with my belt conveyor so that the nut can screw the thread easily.
Hacksaw and files will be a good alternative if you don\'t have these tools.
To attach all-
Thread, I ran it over and added a \"flat washer and nut\" at each end \".
I gently tighten the rod snu with a pair of wrenches, but this is just for the show, so there is no need to really tighten.
Using the threaded holes I drilled earlier, I connected the base to the table top with 1 \"long\"
Bolts, lock washers and washers are 20 each.
The holes at the bottom are slightly too large to explain the movement of the wood.
As you can see, I built a pair of coffee tables as they were designed to work together or to be used separately.
I am very happy with the results and they should last for many years.
If you like this project, subscribe to my YouTube channel, look at my website and learn about my future construction. Thanks!
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