stainless steel coffee table with ceramic top

by:GSH     2020-10-10
Hello, welcome to all the community of structures.
This is my 13 teaching.
If you like my project then don\'t forget to vote, like and share.
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We have been using this old table for over 15 years, and I think when the metal race comes, it\'s the best time to replace this table with a new one.
This is a challenging project for us.
We haven\'t studied ceramics before and don\'t know how hard it is.
Our stone processing tools are very limited.
The design of the table is not too complicated, but the materials used in this building are difficult to process, especially steel and ceramic stones, which took a lot of time to reach the completion status because during the processing, these materials are polished and processed at different stages.
Use the wall thickness of the steel pipe in this building with a thickness of 1.
76mm I completed the whole project with an electric welder.
The completion of the ceramic top molding took nearly 3 days to reach this highlight state.
From the beginning of this project, I knew that the design I was going to do looked very simple, which is why I decided to make it more interesting.
I decided to install some CNC plug-ins in the footrest area.
I want my table to be seen at night as well, which is why I decided to fill those CNC engraving designs with dark powder mixed in resin, the end result is just ahead and I think you look great at night.
Everything in this building is made by us and after seeing the overall results we are very proud of our work.
Here is a list of the tools we use in this build :-1.
Arc welding set with speed regulator angle grinder drilling rig cut saw center punch half round gear speed square tape measure round saw wooden hammer cut block hammer table saw oblique cut saw turning plate (60,80,120 grit)
Scottish wheel polishing wheel with polished paste stone grinding Diamond pad (
100, 200, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, sand)Sandpaper (
Sand 60, 80, 120, 220, 320, 400)Custom CNC20. 60-
V bit for engraving digital cursor calipers cotton scrap and rags23.
Marking welding fixture C fixture is a list of materials we use in this building :-1. 1. 5”X1. 5 \"square pipe.
1 \"X2\" rectangular pipe 3.
\"X\" stainless steel bar4.
1. Epwood, thick in Brazil.
-\"Plywood 1mm laminate6.
Thick polyethylene sheet. ¾” Wood screw8.
The epoxy resin in dark powder wax polishing Araldite glows the design of our table is very simple.
The real challenge is to make this table because we have the choice of materials, tools and infrastructure.
In addition, weather conditions (
Temperature and humidity 47 degrees Celsius)
Make this building more challenging.
There are a lot of complications with this version, but we have successfully solved every challenge.
What makes this table unique is the dark resin glow that we put on our carved Brazilian Apu Wood.
Shine at night and produce beautiful effects at night.
I also uploaded the design for your reference.
So, to start the project first, what I do is the host, it is made of stainless steel, the Grade I choose for steel is SS 202.
This steel is suitable for indoor engineering.
If you are going to make something in stainless steel and use it outdoors, then the SS 304 is good in this case as it is more resistant to corrosion.
I decided the size of the host first.
In my case, the height of the table is 22 inch, and the size of my host from the top is 24 \"X36\", which I think is enough for me.
Here is a list of all the materials that need to be cut to build this project :-1.
1 \"X2\" rectangular pipe for top frame :-2pcs. of 24” long2.
1 \"X2\" rectangular pipe for top frame :-2pcs. of 36” long3. 1. 5”X1.
5 \"square pipes for legs :-4pcs. Of 22” long4.
1 \"X2\" rectangular pipe supported at the bottom :-2pcs. of 21” long5.
1 \"X2\" rectangular pipe supported at the bottom :-2pcs. of 33” long6.
1 \"X2\" rectangular pipe supported at the bottom :-7pcs.
After cutting all the parts, I removed both the burrs and The chamfer to form a nice clean weld.
It really helps to make a clean joint.
Main structure pcs after cutting.
It\'s time to weld these together.
I have never welded any steel before, and the thickness of the steel is too thin for arc welding, I realized that when I first started welding, I have done a lot of air holes on steel and after so many experiments and practices, I was able to develop my own methods.
I used the SS308 electrode at 80 amps current setting. If you place a rod for more than 2 seconds at one point, then only the air holes are formed, which is why I weld the joint and each tack is very close to each other.
I first made a table with a similar structure and for this I started with the main top frame of the table, which is made of a 1 \"X2\" rectangular pipe.
Before welding the parts, I clip them onto another tube so they can stay flat.
After that, I first check the square degree of the top frame and then do the sticky welding.
Here I made two big nails on one joint, one at the top and the other at the bottom.
By doing so, you can reduce a certain amount of thermal stress generated during welding.
When I weld on both sides, I will check the square of my frame again, because if there is any problem, I have the opportunity to correct my mistake, but everything is fine because of the correct clamping.
After that, I moved this to the welding table I made temporarily and finished my welding joint.
I weld on alternate sides so I can reduce the pressure as much as possible.
If you look closely at my video, you will notice that I have a lot of time to lift my electrode during the welding process, which is because I have completed all my welding joints using only sticky welding.
The stainless steel I use in this project has a very thin wall thickness and the end result is a vent every time I do continuous welding.
You never want to use stainless steel in a project to make this kind of thing, because every part of your weld will be visible.
If you are going to fill these holes, you will notice that the part you are welding sinks less than the rest of the area, because the heat is too large and the wall thickness is very thin.
So, if you\'re going to do something with stainless steel, then you have to check the wall thickness of the material before you start welding, so that you can adjust the setting according to your machine, which makes it easier to work.
I grind everything with a ceramic wheel after I finish welding on the host and then grind with 60 sand flap wheels to smooth my joints so I can move on to the next step, that is welding legs with frames.
I think the third most important thing to need in the welding project after the grinder and welder is the clip, which can keep your work still without causing any trouble.
After that, I fixed the frame to the table with a clip, then checked the flatness of the leg, then clipped it to the table and then did a sticky weld.
I repeat this with the remaining three legs and my table structure seems to be ready.
I haven\'t finished the complete welding yet as I have to weld some support at the bottom of the table.
There is no support at one end, if I finish the complete welding on my leg, I have to weld some parts at the bottom, there should be warping, then the bottom part will go out the square I don\'t want.
Then I measure the length of the support at the bottom and cut it to the desired length.
After that, by clamping it on the table and with the help of the scrap block used as the gasket, keep it above 2 \"from the bottom, then I will weld all sides.
After tracking everything, I checked each side with speed square and then I finished the welding.
After that, I grinded everything and prepared for the next step, the footrest area.
I cut the rectangular pipe and clamp the plug on the inside of the support so that the workpiece can stay on that piece during welding.
Before that, I marked the center point of the longer support, and then I placed a pipe that I used as a gasket, and on both sides of the pipe, I welded the pipe with sticky welding.
I repeat the process for all the remaining pipes.
By doing so, I will install my wood CNC plug-in every two pipes with equal spacing.
After that, I did the complete welding.
After completing the weld, I grind everything and bring it to the finish state.
First of all, I grind it off with 60 wheels and then I grind it off with 80,120 wheels.
After 120, I used the Scottish wheel, almost eliminated all the scratches, and then with the help of the cotton wheel and the polished green compound, I took it to a shiny state.
The countertop material I chose was ceramic.
This piece is too big, we have to cut it into the required length.
The size I used for the top is 42 \"X30 \".
The side of the stone is already 30 \"long, which is why all I need to do is cut to one side.
By selecting this dimension, I have 3 highlighted sections on all 4 sides of the table.
Before that, I put the stone on the pieces of wood and put a piece of cloth on those pieces so that it can provide a cushion for the stone so that it does not break.
Then I mark the length I need to cut.
With speed square, I clamp the pipe perpendicular to the stone and then cut the required length with the diamond blade in the saw.
Since I wanted to make the top thicker without adding too much weight, I decided to cut some stone strips and stick to the top.
With the help of the gasket, I marked the Strip width I needed to cut. I cut it 2.
Leave the wide ceramic stone strips.
The gap between the two sides.
Because I don\'t want to waste stones, I go and add two straps to make a long one for the longer side.
So I have to cut 5.
For the woodworking I use with the Mitter joint, that\'s why with the help of the Speed Square I marked 45-deg.
Angle, then straight cut by clamping Speed Square, with the help of circular saw cutting.
When you cut small pieces, always provide some support under the stone.
This is repeated for both sides.
Then I check if they are appropriate.
After that, with the help of both
Part epoxy, I stick together with the table top and clamp properly.
The epoxy cured after two hours and I went on to the next step.
Because of its round shape, molding is one of the most difficult jobs in this project.
It doesn\'t take that much time if you\'re going to do a chamfer, but for me it takes nearly 18 hours to bring the mold to the finished state.
Before doing the desktop styling, I cut the corners into circles.
To do this, I drew a curve in the corner with the help of a CD, and then clipped a layer under that corner so that when I cut the corner with a grinder, the corner won\'t turn off the chip.
After cutting all four corners, I corrected the circle of the corner with the Diamond Cup wheel, which removed a lot of material during grinding.
I made all four corners.
After making the corner round, I am ready to get the top ready to round all the edges (making fillet).
For this I took a piece of scrap porcelain stone and placed it on the edge of the top and marked the lines around the edge.
Then with the help of the corse Cup wheel, I made a circle on the edge.
We want a half circle around the table. This is a time-
Consumption process.
This thing is done on the top and bottom of the side.
After the two sides are roughly formed, it\'s time to finish the top.
I used a diamond frosted pad to finish the molding.
The diamond pads I use to Polish are sand of 60, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000.
By following this order, I was able to get so much finishing in the mold. Note:-
Grinding an important thing with a diamond stone mat, you have to ask for 3000-4500 rpm.
I use a simple angle mill with a speed of 20,000rpm to control the speed that must be required (
220V 2000W speed controller SCR voltage regulator motor speed controller)
It took nearly 3 days to make the finished desktop model.
This is one of the most time-consuming jobs in a project, but this adds to the overall beauty of the whole project.
Because my table is too heavy and the shoes available on the market are not heavy enough, they can withstand the weight of the table when moving back and forth on the floor, which is why I designed my own shoes.
I hope they are strong enough to hold on for a long time.
For this material, I use polyethylene with a thickness of 20mm.
Then I measure the internal width of the pipe used for the leg.
After that, I put the polyethylene block on the CNC and then with the help of the CAD program, I cut 4 pieces for the shoes.
I did two programs for this.
First, I grind along an area where the size is equal to the inner width of the pipe up to 10mm, and then after providing an offset of 6mm, I take another path to the full depth.
Since I worked with the wrong vertical mill, the material started melting, but luckily I was able to do the job and after that I cleaned the edges of the shoes, and provide a bit of rounded corners by sending sandpaper and files of 120 grits to the edge.
I personally think this kind of shoe is more powerful than the shoes that are caught from the outside.
Then with the help of two people
Part epoxy, I stick my shoes to the bottom of the table.
Since I keep the shoes in a slightly larger size than the inside of the pipe, that\'s why I need to blow them to my legs with a hammer.
But this is not difficult.
After installing the shoes on the legs, I measured the internal dimensions of the top area, that is, 20\'x32 \".
Fortunately, I found a remaining piece from my previous project that was the same size as I needed.
This is the one I stuck my desktop.
Since I wanted the table to look cleaner in every way, I decided to stick a piece of laminate on one side of the floor.
I glue the laminate together with normal wood glue and some masking tape so that no bubbles are formed under the laminate.
After that, I went to the next step to make a mesh box for the inside part of the table that had to be permanently welded with the table.
For this I use stainless steel 6mm widesteel bar.
This is the part you can modify as needed.
After that, I put all the pieces on the table, with the help of the abandoned parts of all the pieces I laid, and then glued everything.
After that, I took it off the table and finished all my welding.
Then with the help of the flap wheel, I grind it flat with the whole part.
Since this part is not visible from the outside, there is no need to buffer it.
After that, I drilled 4mm diameter holes in this net area and counted all the holes.
With these holes I can fix my desktop with the table and if it needs to be removed from the table then it will be easy to disassemble.
After that, I put 3mm shims under the table, then clipped the table to the table and put the plywood on it.
By doing so, the plywood will be raised slightly from all four sides, which you can see clearly in the attached image.
By doing so, the weight of the ceramic top is borne by the mesh and plywood.
Then I put that net where I drilled on this laying layer, and then nailed all the edges to weld.
After that, I removed the plywood and finished my welding joint.
I only Weld one side and make sure it doesn\'t break when a heavy stone is laid on it.
I stood on this and tested it several times.
When I confirm that it won\'t go anywhere, I grind everything with a sand flap wheel of 60 to 120 and then polish it with a Scottish wheel and a green polish compound.
Since I didn\'t want to fix my desktop on the table, I decided to do so.
First, I put the plywood on the table top, where the laminate side faces the hole and the rough side goes out.
I then mixed two parts of the epoxy and laid it on the plywood.
After that, put the table top on the plywood and let it solidify for 12 hours.
After fully curing, I screwed the plywood with the table.
At that time, the project seemed to have been completed, but for me it looked simple and I didn\'t do the simple work, that\'s why I made some CNC plug-ins for V engraving design on it.
I installed these things in the rest area of my feet.
In terms of materials, I chose one of the hardest wood-Brazilian Apur Wood.
My wood is 5 inch wide, which is why I need to cut it to the required width and length.
First I cut the length to 22 inch long, then I put the part 2 inch wide on the table saw.
The remaining two pieces are 4 inch wide.
The design I use for this project is provided in the cad file.
Then I move to the CNC machine where I will carve some designs on these parts.
I chose 60 in design-
The V level and maximum depth of the machine are 6mm.
The more complex the design you choose, the smaller the processing depth.
To give it a personal feel, I carved my own logo outside.
If you have vinyl skin, then when you are going to paint or insert the resin into the carved surface, apply it on the surface of the wood you are going to machine, and the remaining areas will not be affected, you will get a nice clean surface.
After that, I filled all my designs with dark powder mixed in the resin.
After that, I allowed nearly 24 hours of treatment.
Then with the help of 60
Grade sandpaper, I remove all the extra material from the surface and make it flush with the surface.
Everything is done.
After that, I polished everything with 120 sandpaper and then wet it with 220 to 400 sandpaper.
Since it is a hardwood floor, it is not affected by wet delivery and wet sanding, and I get very good results that I don\'t think can be achieved with dry sanding.
After that, I applied two layers of wax on the surface, but I think using oil is a good move when you work with such hardwood floors.
Since the part I cut is equal to the size I need, I don\'t need to do any extra work in the fitting.
With the help of two people
Part epoxy, I stick the plug-in to the footrest area, but the exterior of the two pieces is slightly different.
In order to put these parts on the table, I need to cut small gaps in two corners.
After cutting these gaps, the insert will easily trap the rubber mallet into the cavity with some slight blows.
On a completely dark night, these plugins glow and look very beautiful to the eyes.
It was a very interesting and enjoyable project for me and I think you guys enjoyed it too.
If you like the building then don\'t forget to vote for our entries.
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